Madeira, Portugal Revisited: New Hikes, Viewpoints & Coastal Towns, Our Second Journey Travel Guide!

Welcome to Wild Meadow Studio’s Travel Blog, where we “Focus on the Journey” from first stages of planning to the last flight home and everything in-between! We’re excited to share our second Travel Guide on the stunning and unique island of Madeira, Portugal, which includes new hikes, coastal towns, some updated tips, and more restaurant choices on the island. There is so much to do and see here, that we’re hoping to make another trip soon! For more information on Madeira, checkout our other posts: “Top 10 Experiences in Madeira, Portugal”, “How to get the most out of your 7-Day Visit to Madeira, Portugal” and “Tips & Recommendations, Helping You Create Your Own Perfect Journey to the Beautiful Island of Madeira, Portugal”.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning that we would get a small commission if you decided to make a purchase through one of them, at no extra cost to you and you would be supporting our small Canadian business. This would allow us to continue creating informative travel content. All the businesses we are recommending are ones we use in our travels and feel comfortable doing so!

Table of contents:

1. Our 5 New and Unique Hikes on the Island.
2. 4 Coastal Beauties, Towns We Explored.
3. Some New Tips & Recommendations, Including Restaurants.
4. Let’s Map it Out, a Quick 6-day Itinerary.
5. Our Fav Photo from our Second Time Around.
6. References
7. The Wrap up

1. Our 5 New & Unique Hikes on the Island:

1. PR9- Levada do Caldeirao Verde:

Distance: 8.7kms one way (17.4kms round trip)

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

Total Time: Approx. 6.5 hours

Driving Distance from Funchal: Approx. 1 hour Northeast

Out & Back or Loop: Out & Back

Cost: 3:00 euros/person over 12

Parking: 2:00 euros/hour

GPS: PR9 Levada do Caldeirao Verde

Open/Closed: Partially open (currently about 13kms round trip and 4-5 hours of open trail)

Public Transportation: You can take bus #56, 103 or 138 from Funchal to Santana, then take a taxi to the trail head the last 6.5kms. Or you could take a guided tour check it out here.

To start, if you’re coming by car put PR9 Levada do Caldeirao Verde into you GPS and it will take you to the parking lot, which is a pretty good size, but can fill up. We arrived here in the early afternoon and had no problem getting a spot. This is one of the islands many unique Levada* hikes, which we really enjoy. It’s relatively flat, with some uphill sections or stairs, but not too hard. At the beginning you’ll see a couple typical thatched roof houses, these are so pretty and a great photo op. Here you can get food and drinks, as well, there are (pay) washrooms in a separate building closer to the parking lot, these are the only washrooms on this partially open hike. Once you get started on your hike, you’ll be going through the Laurissilva forest area, then move onto beautiful escarpments, mountain views and a set of 4 tunnels, (so make sure you have a headlamp or flashlight).

When we were here in the spring this hike was partially closed, as it is today, (check out our Tips & Recommendations section below for more information on this and new rules for fees and booking times for your hikes). It’s closed between Caldeirao Verde and Caldeirao do Inferno, making the current out & back more like 6.5 kms one way, 13 kms return taking about 4 – 5 hours to complete. Basically, as of now, you are able to walk out to the waterfall and back, which was still a beautiful hike, lots to see, enjoy and photograph. It took us about 4.5 hours in total, we did take a few photos, lol and stop to enjoy the many waterfalls. Leading up to our trip, the island had been having a lot of rain, more than normal, so the trail was quite muddy and there were waterfalls where there weren’t normally waterfalls, which made it beautiful, but a little more challenging to walk and avoid getting wet. I had my umbrella that I used quite a bit as we had to actually walk under some of the waterfalls. All in all, a stunning hike, lots of different things to see, not too difficult, just some stamina to finish, highly recommend, especially if you’re looking for a longer hike that isn’t as hard as the Pico Areeiro to Pico Ruivo.

*What is a Levada? They are a network of water channels or aqueducts, unique to this island, originally built to transport water from the wetter northwest to the drier southeast, later they were used for hydroelectric power and today they are a popular tourist attraction, making interesting hikes through beautiful natural landscapes and forests. *

2. PR1.2 Vereda do Pico Ruivo:

Distance: 2.8kms one way (5.6kms round trip)

Difficulty: Moderate to hard, (mostly up hill)

Total Time: Approx. 2.5 hours (with stops)

Driving Distance from Funchal: Approx. 1 hour North

Out & Back or Loop: Out & Back

Cost: 3:00 euros/person over 12

Parking: No fee listed; we parked on the street for free

GPS: PR1.2 Vereda do Pico Ruivo (or Parking Achada do Teixeira)

Open/Closed: This section is open, but the section to Vereda do Areeiro is closed

Public Transportation: Same as PR9, you can take bus’ #56, #103 or #138 to Santana and then take a taxi the rest of the way, 10kms. Or a guided tour, check it out here.

To start, simply put PR1.2 Vereda do Pico Ruivo into your GPS, and it will take you to the parking lot, it’s a decent size, but again fills up, we went early afternoon, and it was full, so we had to park about a kilometer down the road, (which added to our hike). If you go a little later in the afternoon, closer to 3:00pm there’s a better chance you’ll find a spot in the parking lot. There is also a little café just off the parking lot, (Achada do Teixeira Mountain Spot Café, with washrooms). At the start of the trail, there is a hut, where you can pay or show that you’ve paid online. This hike is also listed as moderate in difficulty, (we added the hard) which might be because it is only 2.8 kms one way, so 5.6 return, but it is straight up hill! So, if you have difficulty with this or don’t enjoy the uphill hikes, this one may not be one you’d appreciate. I did it, with a lot of stopping and resting to catch my breath (I do have asthma) but made it to the top! It takes approx. 2.5hrs in total, for us it was more like 3hrs, but we did stop for a snack and photos, lots of photos.

There is a café about 500m from the top with washrooms and food & drink, which was a very nice break. The scenery on the hike is breathtaking, but in a good way as well, lol. Every view is spectacular, especially from the top. You can see all the way to the ocean, the other mountain peaks in the area, different towns, as well as some of the mountain side that was burned in the forest fires they had here in August of 2024, which caused the closure or partial closure of many of the hiking trails, including the popular hike from PR1 Pico do Areeiro to PR1.2 Pico Ruivo. We had been planning to do this hike one way and taxi back to our car, but unfortunately it was closed, hoping the next time we’re here it will be open.

We also saw some very cute Red Legged Partridges at the top of Pico Ruivo, shown above. It was clear and sunny on the way up and foggy on the way down, which was actually pretty cool. All in all, spectacular views, a little more on the challenging side, but a great feeling of accomplishment at the top!! Worth it if you don’t mind the climb.

3. Levada dos Balcoes:

Distance: 1.5kms one way (3kms round trip)

Difficulty: Easy, mostly flat

Total Time: Approx. 1.5 hours

Driving Distance from Funchal: Approx. 40 mins Northeast

Out & Back or Loop: Out & Back

Cost: 3:00 euros/person over 12

Parking: No fee listed; we parked on the street for free

GPS: Levada dos Balcoes (associated to PR11, but just put in Levada dos Balcoes)

Open/Closed: Open

Public Transportation: Yes, you can take the bus #56 from Funchal to the Levada dos Balcoes, it takes about an hour and costs 2-3 euros one way. Check the schedule or ask the bus drive about the return times.

To start, put Levada dos Balcoes into your GPS, this will take you to the beginning of the trail, there are a few small parking lots and restaurants in and around that area, but you can also just park on the street and look for the signs. We got here earlyish around 8:30/9:00am, and got a parking spot right at the entrance, as at this time of the day pretty much every tourist on the island seemed to be at the PR1 Vereda do Areeiro, about 20mins away, which is definitely one of the most popular trails on the island, so doing the Levada dos Balcoes trail at this time was great, we only saw a few other people on the trail, which made our hike very relaxing and enjoyable. If you’re looking for an alternative sunrise hike this would be a great option, as well if you haven’t done a Levada hike and don’t want to take on one of the longer ones this is also perfect option. If you’re visiting Madeira, we really recommend you do at least one Levada hike, as they are unique to this island.

The Levada dos Balcoes is short and sweet, only 1.5 kms one way, 3 kms return, only taking about 1.5 hrs. It’s flat and easy, with forest views alongside a Levada as well as vista views and a small snack bar (Flor da Selva) about halfway, with a (pay) washroom. It’s open every day from 10:00am to 7:00pm. We got some yummy honey cakes and coffee on the way back from the lookout. We followed the signs along the way and once we arrived at the lookout we were rewarded with spectacular views of valleys, mountain tops and the ocean, it was beautiful. On a clear day you can even see the tips of Pico do Areeiro and Pico Ruivo. Also, we saw very cute Madeira Firecrest birds, these small birds were flying all around and sitting in the tree above us at the lookout. We had some nuts that we broke into pieces, and they would eat right out of our hands, very cute. All in all, we highly recommend this hike, it was a lot of rewards for little effort.

4. PR13 Vereda do Fanal/Fanal Forest Walk:

Distance: 10.8kms one way (21.6 round trip)

Difficulty: Moderate

Total Time: Approx. 8 hours return.

Driving Distance from Funchal: Approx. 1 hour west

Out & Back or Loop: Out & Back

Cost: 3:00 euros/person over 12

Parking: No fee listed, it was free when we were there (but new rules are coming)

GPS: Fanal Parking

Open/Closed: Open

Public Transportation: No, best with a car but there are different tours you can take, check them out here.

To start put Fanal Parking into your GPS. Right from the parking lot you get treated to this UNESCO World Heritage Site, seeing these ancient trees, some over 600 years old, was quite impressive. Take some time to wander around this area, enjoy and take photos, before heading to the PR13 trailhead, east of the parking lot. You’ll walk through the Laurissilva forest and end up at a small volcanic crater. If you want a chance of seeing these unique trees with some eerie fog surrounding them, the best times to go are sunrise to about 10:30am or 4:00pm to sunset, it’s obviously not guaranteed, but you just have a better chance, and Oct to May are the better months for this too. We were there at the beginning of April early in the morning. If you don’t want to do this whole hike, you can either, do part of it and simply return when you’re ready or if you really just want to see some of the amazing trees, just park and wander through them, and just leave when you’re done. All in all, we loved this place for the uniqueness of the trees, and the quiet eerie feeling walking through them in the fog. Also, on the R209 on the way to the forest, we saw quite a few cows, (one pictured above) they were in the fields just off the road, very cute, but be mindful if driving.

When we were there, due to all the recent rain they had, it was quite muddy walking through this area. Always make sure you have good footwear and a jacket as it is pretty high up in altitude and can get quite cold.

As we were on our way back to the parking lot, we passed a young lady with a pretty white sleeveless dress and white sandals trying to work her way into the field of trees to get her Instagram shot, not sure if she got it, but she was sliding in the mud and shivering as it was quite cold, she didn’t look like she was enjoying herself, so make sure you come prepared!

5. Achadas da Cruz Cable Car and Hike:

Distance: 2kms one way (4kms round trip)

Difficulty: Easy

Total Time: Approx. 1 hour (leisurely pace)

Driving Distance from Funchal: Approx. 1 hour west

Out & Back or Loop: Out & Back

Cost: 5:00 euros return (Cable Car)

Parking: free (small parking lot or street parking)

GPS: Miradouro do Telferico de Achadas do Cruz

Open/Closed: Open

Public Transportation: Best with a car or part of a tour, check out some here.

This was our favourite new find! To start you can either put in Miradouro do Teleferico de Achadas da Cruz or Calhau Snack Bar Achadas Cruz, these will bring you to the parking lot closes to the cable car. We did this in the afternoon, so had to park along the road and there was about a 20 mins wait for the cable car. The ride costs 5 euros round trip/person, and they are open from 8:00 am to 6:00pm but closed for a lunch break between 12:00 and 1:00pm. (Sources differ a little on the hours, so make sure you double check before you go). If there is bad weather or high winds it may not be operating. We checked with the tourism office in Porto Moniz before we drove out there to make sure it was open. It’s located at Rua dos Emigrantes 2 and open 10:00 to 4:00pm Monday to Friday, 10:00am to 12:30pm on Saturday and closed on Sundays.

Once down by the water, walk south/west along the path, enjoy the views, the ocean on the right and the cliffs on the left, the views here are incredible. The path is only about 2 kms, so 4 kms round trip, but fairly flat and easy, so well worth the effort, this is another walk great for people who want to see amazing things, but don’t enjoy the big hikes. All in all, we loved it here, so beautiful, relaxing, and great for photos.

**Fun Facts about the cable car, it is at a 98% gradient, is one of the steepest cable cars in Europe, takes 5 mins each way, descends approx. 1500 ft, and was originally built to help the farmers living at the bottom in the town of Faja da Quebrada Nova to bring up the produce they had been growing, before the cable car was built the only access to the town was by boat.**

2. 4 Coastal Beauties, Towns we Explored:

1. Porto de Cruz:

This beautiful coastal town is located on the northeastern corner of the island, in the municipality of Machico, about 30 mins east of Funchal. This area has very rugged terrain, with cliffs and rocky beaches along the ocean. From the main waterfront there is a path that follows the water around a large rock face for about a kilometer and takes you to a Alagoa Beach, on a small inlet. In the main waterfront area, there are hotels, shops, wine bars, and restaurants, serving seafood, and Portuguese cuisine. There is also a church, park, and a lookout. We went here for a waterfront walk, a little exploring and lunch at Baia do Bago, on the water, we sat on the patio and had a great seafood lunch and yummy dessert, enjoyed it very much. Definitely Recommend.

2. Camara de Lobos:

Another pretty coastal town, this one is less then 15 mins west of downtown Funchal. There is actually a waterfront walk you can take from the west end of Funchal in the hotel district all the way to Camara de Lobos. This little fishing village has a pretty bay, lots of shops, restaurants, cafés, lighthouse, lookouts, and a statue of Winston Churchill sitting and painting at an easel. It is said that Winston Churchill used to vacation here and loved to paint while visiting.

We would suggest coming here either early, like before 9:30am, for breakfast and exploring or visit later in the afternoon for drinks and a snack. By 10:00am bus tours start rolling into town and it fills up quite quickly. We recommend this very cute fishing village but mind the timing.

3. Ponta do Sol:

This was our favourite new coastal town. We arrived around 11:00am and it wasn’t busy, it’s so, so pretty, the views are amazing. This town boasts the most hours of sunshine per year on the island. The cute streets in the town were fun to explore, there are numerous restaurants, cafes, shops, hotels, lookouts, churches, waterfalls, public washrooms, and a beach. The beach is rocky, but they built multiple wooden boardwalks, leading to straw umbrellas that you can sit under. We had lunch at Sol Poente Restaurante and sat out on their balcony overlooking the ocean and the town, spectacular views! We had yummy Bolo do Caco sandwiches and drinks, very good. Can’t wait to go back!

4. Porto Moniz with Ribera Janel Lookout:

On our last visit to Madeira, we did visit Porto Moniz and loved it, especially the ocean pools, great experience. On this past trip we wanted to go back and do a little more exploring. On our way into town, we stopped off at the Ribeira da Janela lookout and saw the beautiful rock formations. Then continued into town. We didn’t do the ocean pools this time as it was April, and the water was still pretty cold. So, we wander along the waterfront and stopped to watch the huge waves crashing on the rocks, was mesmerizing. In town, they have a lot of souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes, as well as an aquarium. We had lunch at the Conchinha Bar, upstairs from the Tourist Information spot. We had Bolo do Caco sandwiches, chips and frozen drinks, all good and out on a cute patio with ocean views. If you’re looking for something a little less casual, you could try the Sea View Restaurant, we ate there as well and the food was delicious, mainly seafood and had amazing views of the ocean and the pools. Love this town.

3. Some New Tips & Recommendations, Including Restaurants:

1. Trail Closures: In August of 2024 there were wildfires that devastated parts of the island as well as more than normal amounts of rain in the spring of 2025 that caused problems to some of the trails. For example, the popular, PR1 Vereda do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo is partially closed in-between, so you can hike at both ends, but not it in its entirety, this one is scheduled to reopen April 2026. Another popular one is PR7 Levada do Moinho, which is closed indefinitely. For the most current information on the trails check out IFCN Madeira before heading out, they will list any current closures.

2. New booking/payment systems for Hiking trails: Starting January 1^st, 2026, Madeira will require reservations and possible fees to access some of their more popular hiking trails so they can manage their increase in tourism and fund conservation. So, you will be required to book a time slot in order to enjoy these hikes, which will make your experience more enjoyable since there will be less people one the trails at one time. Plus, they have already started to charge for certain hike, usually it’s 3:00 euros. There will be a list coming out in the new year regarding the effected trails. For more information on the new changes coming please visit IFCN Madeira or SIMplifica.

3. Fanal Forest changes: As of Nov. 2025, there are boardwalks, paths and fencing being installed in the high traffic areas around these ancient trees. With the rise in tourism Madeira has experienced over the last several years, this area needed to be protected, both the trees and the soil. As well, they will soon be introducing paid parking. So, things may look a little different there now, but you can still enjoy this amazing forest, just in a way that’s better for the environment.

4. Phone service: It’s important when driving in Madeira that you either pick up a GPS with your car rental or make sure you have a properly working phone with maps. When travelling in Europe we use Hippocket Wifi, but they also service Canada and the United States. They are based in France, but you can simply order it online and they ship it directly to you 3-5 days before you leave for your trip. It comes with a small carrying case, charger, (including a car charger if needed) and an addressed, stamped return mailing envelope, so you simply drop it off in the mailbox at the airport before heading home. The great thing about this is that if you are traveling with other people, you can all use it and share in the cost. You can have up to 8-10 users at the same time. If you have multiple users, I recommend getting the unlimited options, as the 1GB/day option may not be enough. The unlimited works out to be approximately 7.00 to 9.00 euros per day, including all shipping. It’s a great option, check it out here.      

   5.  Some New Restaurants We Enjoyed:

Conchinha Bar: A casual restaurant, serving sandwiches some with Bolo do Caco bread and chips, seafood, and slushy drinks, they have a patio with ocean views. Located at Rua do Lugar 4, Porto Moniz, open 10:00am to 10:00pm, every day.

Sol Poente Restarunte: This one is basically perched on a cliff, with amazing views of the town of Ponte do Sol and the ocean, loved it here. They offer casual foods as well, sandwiches, seafood, and sweets. Located at Cais da Ponta do Sol 9360. They are open from 9:00am to 12:00am every day.

Baia do Bago: Seafood, Portuguese cuisine and great desserts. This restaurant has indoor and outdoor seating, with a large patio overlooking the ocean and beach area. Located at Caminho do Penedo, Porto da Cruz. Open Thursday to Monday 10:00am to 10:00pm, Tuesdays 10:00am to 3:00pm and closed on Wednesdays.

Snack Bar Flor da Selva: This super cute snack bar is located on the trail part way to the Balcoes lookout, on Vereda dos Balcoes. The have a pretty good menu, seafood, salads, snacks, sweets, coffee/tea. A great spot to enjoy in the quiet morning, with great views and interesting furniture. They are open 10:00am to 7:00pm every day.

4. Let’s Map it Out, a Quick 6 Day Itinerary:

Day 1: Start the day off early at #1. PR13 Vereda do Fanal, we are suggesting you do a portion of this hike or simply enjoy the forest area near the parking lot, spending a few hours wandering around and taking in this unique sight. If you do the hole hike there and back it will pretty much be a full day activity, so you wouldn’t have much time left to do anything else, but if you decide to do it all, simple adjust your itinerary. After spending some time in the Fanal Forest, head northwest on R209 towards Porto Moniz.

Once you get closer to the ocean, you’ll see signs for the #2. Miradouro da Ribeira da Janela, this is the lookout for the rugged rock formations. Beautiful scenery and a great photo op.

From here, head west towards Porto Moniz. Park and explore this beautiful coastal town, depending on the time of year you may be able to swim in the ocean pools, if you can, you should really try them, it was pretty amazing. There are two places, the Piscinas Naturais do Porto Moniz, which is 3:00 euros per person with more amenities and the Piscinas Naturais do Aquario, which is free, and more natural, but less amenities. We are also suggesting to have your lunch in Porto Moniz, we have enjoyed two different restaurants here, Sea View Restaurante, (inside the Aqua Natura Madeira Hotel) offering great seafood with views of the ocean pools and ocean out on their balcony. The other is Conchinha Bar, upstairs from the Tourist information office. They also have a patio with ocean views and offer more casual fare, like sandwiches and chips and slushy drinks, was great as well and less expensive.

#3. After you’re satisfied with your time in Porto Moniz, now is the time to travel about 20mins southwest to the Achadas da Cruz Cable cars. They close at *6:00pm (7:00pm in the summer) but the last cable car down is at about 4:00pm, so make sure you plan accordingly. Two hours should be more than enough time to enjoy this area, once you’re at the bottom the return walk is 4kms, taking about 1hour at a very leisurely pace, with photo stops! Again, this is our new favourite spot.

*The hours can change, or the cable cars can be affected by the weather, so check before you go at the Tourist Information office. *

Day 2: Today we are suggesting starting at the #1. Levada dos Balcoes, a short hike with spectacular views at the lookout. It takes about 1.5 hours return, stop at the café on your way back for a treat and a coffee/tea.

#2. Next head to Porto da Cruz for rugged views of the cliffs surrounding the town, walk along the water, explore the town, and have a delicious seafood lunch at Baia do Bago.

#3. Last stop for the day, is Pico Ruivo. Getting here later in the afternoon, is usually a good thing, most people have come and gone by this time of day, so you might even get a spot in the parking lot. Enjoy this breathtaking hike!

Day 3: #1. This day starts at Camara do Lobos for breakfast, choose a restaurant on the water and relax with something sweet and a coffee, while taking in the beautiful views. Then explore the few lookouts, side streets, shops, and fishing boats. Take your time and soak it all in.

#2. Ponto de Sol is up next, we loved it here. Surrounded by cliffs on 2 sides and on the ocean, there is a lot to look at. So, take your time, walk on the beach, take photos of the waterfall, listen to the waves crashing on the shore, check out the shops, and lookouts, have lunch overlooking the town and water, at Sol Poente Restarunte, enjoy this small coastal town.

Day 4: Today will be a bit of a slower start, sleep in, swim, walk into #1. Funchal for brunch, pick up some sandwiches to bring with you for the afternoon. #2. Early afternoon head out to PR9 Levada do Caldeirao Verde, this is a full afternoon hike, depending on if the whole trail is open or not, it could take anywhere from 4 to 6.5 hours. You could stop at the waterfall and have a picnic lunch. Don’t forget your headlamp or flashlight and good shoes.

Day 5: Full day in Porto Santo, for more information check out our post “Travel Guide & Itinerary for Porto Santo, Portugal”.

Day 6: Explore and enjoy Funchal, for more information on this checkout our post “Funchal, Portugal Revisited: New Sights, Restaurants & Day Trip, Our Second Journey Travel Guide”, (Coming Dec. 8^th).

5. Our Fav Photo from our Second Time Around:

This photo was one of many, and our favourite, we took while exploring the small, secluded village of Fajá da Quebrada Nova only accessible by boat or the Achadas da Cruz Cable Cars. This 4 kms walk was amazing, with the ocean on one side and cliffs with waterfalls on the other. We choose this photo above the others because the cliffs looked like something out of Jurassic Park. With the tall cliffs, large rocks in the forefront, the lush greenery and beautiful ocean, it was an incredible sight, one we will never forget. This whole walk was amazing. The only edit we did to this photo was to lighten it up just a little bit to bring out some more of the impressive colours. We highly recommend exploring this area and creating your own memories in the photogenic spot!

6. References:

All this information, research and suggestions came from our own experiences we had while revisiting the amazing island.  As well, we spent countless hours reading and rereading travel books, like DK Eyewitness Travel, Top 10 Madeira and DK Eyewitness Travel Portugal, Walking on Madeira hiking book, and the Lonely Planet Portuguese Phrasebook and Dictionary. I also read multiple Travel blogs and Madeira tourism websites like, VisitMadeira.com

7. The Wrap up:

 We hope you enjoy this stunning island as much as we do, there is so much to see and do, whether you’re a hiker, foodie, historian or just wanted to relax and take in the beauty all around. We have added links to some of the hikes, restaurants and coastal towns, so that you can check them out and see what piques your interest. If you have any questions, ask away. Feel free to comment, give advice, join our mailing list, follow, like, pin, share with friends, anything goes. Let’s talk Travel!

***Join our Mailing List and be the first to receive exclusive offers, notification of our newest Travel Blogs and our monthly Inspirational Newsletter! Join at the top of the page or through one of the pop ups on our website! ***

Thank you,

From, Beth de Verteuil

Wild Meadow Studio

Where we help you, Focus on the Journey,

www.wildmeadowstudio.com